127r - - - - - [continued]
some thread, as much to secure the herbs so that they do not rise when you throw in your clear sand, as to give them some circulation when they are reheated. Because by doing this the thread burns away and leaves some empty space around the herbs which acts as vents, and places for the air to escape, and places for the air to enter so that they burn more easily; because what keeps them carbonized, is when they burn in a closed fire with no empty spaces because of the fine sprigs. Therefore try to enlarge the main stem with a bit melted wax and leave it to cool. Then mold it. And when the wax melts, it will leave the main stem sitting comfortably and almost loosely so that it burns better. Or you could apply some petrol oil, sulphur, turpentine, brick oil, or similar things, or with aqua fortis or spirits, or make you sand with . Or make your sand with crocum filings of iron lumps or iron esmeri which allow for several days of high fire.
Animal bones are not as difficult to burn and reduce to cinders, because their flesh being burned, the bones remain loose and the heaviness of quicksilver makes them break and be crushed, being calcinated and burnt.
at left top margin
Asparagus always remains carbonized like little pins. Try to the take asparagus and thyme when they start to grow, so that the stem is still tender.
Plaster mold for wax
When your plaster mold is done and dried, be sure that your mold comes off cleanly because it sometimes happens that the animal, having been wounded or having lost weight or having withered, has wrinkles where plaster can get in the scales. Having not been rendered well, the animal will attack itself and break and will never be perfect. Be also advised to make your casts for wax very big. In this way, your casts will not be too thick. They are done when the mold of both sides is done and when the animal
Figure
has been removed from the mold.